{"id":1336,"date":"2011-12-30T14:08:03","date_gmt":"2011-12-30T14:08:03","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.modellismochepassione.it\/?p=1336"},"modified":"2016-01-09T17:42:54","modified_gmt":"2016-01-09T17:42:54","slug":"tecnica-della-modulazione-su-veicoli-teschi-in-giallo-scuro","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.modellismochepassione.it\/en\/tecnica-della-modulazione-su-veicoli-teschi-in-giallo-scuro\/","title":{"rendered":"Modulation technique on german overall dark yellow vehicles"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>The Sd.Kfz. 11 (Sonderkraftfahrzeug &#8211; special motorized vehicle) was a German half-track that saw very widespread use in World War II.<\/p>\n<p>Its main role was as a prime mover for medium towed guns ranging from the 3.7 cm FlaK 43 anti-aircraft gun up to the 10.5 cm leFH 18 field howitzer. It could carry eight troops in addition to towing a gun or trailer.<\/p>\n<p>The basic engineering for all the German half-tracks was developed during the Weimar-era by the Reichswehr&#8217;s Military Automotive Department, but final design and testing was farmed out to commercial firms with the understanding that production would be shared with multiple companies. Borgward[Notes 1] was chosen to develop the second smallest of the German half-tracks and built a series of prototypes between 1934 and 1937. However development was taken over in 1938 by Hanomag who designed the main production version, H kl 6.<br \/>\nThe chassis formed the basis for the Sd.Kfz. 251 medium armored personnel carrier. Approximately 9,000 were produced between 1938 and 1945, making it one of the more numerous German tactical vehicles of the war. It participated in the Invasion of Poland, the Battle of France, the Balkans Campaign and fought on both the Western Front and the Eastern Front, in North Africa and in Italy.<br \/>\n(<a title=\"Sd.Kfz.11 german half track\" href=\"http:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Sd.Kfz._11\" target=\"_blank\">http:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Sd.Kfz._11<\/a>)<\/p>\n<h4><span style=\"color: #808000;\">Building the model.<\/span><\/h4>\n<p><span style=\"color: #808000;\"><strong><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Step 1<\/span><\/strong><br \/>\n<\/span><\/p>\n<p>After a complete cleaning, I paint &#8220;<strong>Mr. Surfacer 1000 from Mr. Hobby<\/strong>&#8220;. I using Modulation Technique painting (This looks very cool). I start to paint the <strong>base color with Dark Yellow Tamiya XF-60<\/strong>.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-1362\" title=\"A1\" src=\"http:\/\/www.modellismochepassione.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/12\/A1.jpg\" alt=\"Tecnica della modulazione\" width=\"460\" height=\"344\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.modellismochepassione.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/12\/A1.jpg 460w, https:\/\/www.modellismochepassione.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/12\/A1-200x150.jpg 200w, https:\/\/www.modellismochepassione.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/12\/A1-350x262.jpg 350w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 460px) 100vw, 460px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>After it cure, I start to <strong>weathering for datail parts<\/strong> ex. Tires. For the cab, I need to paint in <strong>real wood plank color<\/strong> so I paint the color <strong>Tamiya BUFF<\/strong> for the base and weathring with oil color to get the final result. I see the real wood plank color to get the closer result.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-1363\" title=\"A2\" src=\"http:\/\/www.modellismochepassione.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/12\/A2.jpg\" alt=\"Pittura del cassone in legno naturale\" width=\"460\" height=\"343\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.modellismochepassione.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/12\/A2.jpg 460w, https:\/\/www.modellismochepassione.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/12\/A2-200x150.jpg 200w, https:\/\/www.modellismochepassione.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/12\/A2-350x261.jpg 350w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 460px) 100vw, 460px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Then I spray the <strong>Gloss Clear coat for decal applying<\/strong>. After decal setting and dry, I paint Gloss clear 2 times then I start to <strong>weathering by washing with Shadow Brown oil color<\/strong>.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Step 2<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>The next step is <strong>painting the scratch<\/strong>. I am using <strong>Vallejo with small tip brush<\/strong>.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Step 3<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-1364\" title=\"A3\" src=\"http:\/\/www.modellismochepassione.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/12\/A3.jpg\" alt=\"Trattamenti di invecchiamento superficiali\" width=\"460\" height=\"344\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.modellismochepassione.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/12\/A3.jpg 460w, https:\/\/www.modellismochepassione.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/12\/A3-200x150.jpg 200w, https:\/\/www.modellismochepassione.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/12\/A3-350x262.jpg 350w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 460px) 100vw, 460px\" \/><\/p>\n<p><strong><br \/>\n<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>The next step is <strong>how to fading the color<\/strong> for make the model color look pale and old. Using <strong>oil color Fade yellow, white, brown, lemon yellow, dark brown and using White Spirit (Turpentide) for gradient<\/strong>.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Step 4<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-1365\" title=\"A4\" src=\"http:\/\/www.modellismochepassione.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/12\/A4.jpg\" alt=\"Riprodurre gli effetti di invecchiamento\" width=\"460\" height=\"344\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.modellismochepassione.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/12\/A4.jpg 460w, https:\/\/www.modellismochepassione.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/12\/A4-200x150.jpg 200w, https:\/\/www.modellismochepassione.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/12\/A4-350x262.jpg 350w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 460px) 100vw, 460px\" \/><\/p>\n<p><strong><br \/>\n<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>After that I need to <strong>paint the details for streak and dirty<\/strong> with <strong>oil color<\/strong> and <strong>AK Interactive products<\/strong>. I using rust streak, AK is very good because it has strong surface bond and fast drying.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-1366\" title=\"A5\" src=\"http:\/\/www.modellismochepassione.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/12\/A5.jpg\" alt=\"Striature e invecchiamento per agenti atmosferici\" width=\"460\" height=\"343\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.modellismochepassione.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/12\/A5.jpg 460w, https:\/\/www.modellismochepassione.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/12\/A5-200x150.jpg 200w, https:\/\/www.modellismochepassione.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/12\/A5-350x261.jpg 350w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 460px) 100vw, 460px\" \/><\/p>\n<p><strong>Step 5<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-1367\" title=\"A6\" src=\"http:\/\/www.modellismochepassione.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/12\/A6.jpg\" alt=\"Striature verticali di sporco di agenti atmosferici\" width=\"460\" height=\"343\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.modellismochepassione.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/12\/A6.jpg 460w, https:\/\/www.modellismochepassione.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/12\/A6-200x150.jpg 200w, https:\/\/www.modellismochepassione.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/12\/A6-350x261.jpg 350w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 460px) 100vw, 460px\" \/><\/p>\n<p><strong><br \/>\n<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>The next is <strong>dust<\/strong> details. I using <strong>Mig Pigment<\/strong> to make the medium dust surface by using <strong>White, Russian Earth, Copper Rust and Beach Sand mixing together<\/strong> and apply to the area I need.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-1368\" title=\"A7\" src=\"http:\/\/www.modellismochepassione.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/12\/A7.jpg\" alt=\"Scrostature e invecchiamento\" width=\"460\" height=\"328\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.modellismochepassione.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/12\/A7.jpg 460w, https:\/\/www.modellismochepassione.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/12\/A7-350x250.jpg 350w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 460px) 100vw, 460px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Then <strong>I use Tamiya X20A thinner to make the pigment stick to surface<\/strong>. After that, I use <strong>Mig color and Tamiya Gloss clear to make engine oil effect and dirty wet effect<\/strong>.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-1370\" title=\"8\" src=\"http:\/\/www.modellismochepassione.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/12\/8.jpg\" alt=\"Dettaglio dell'invecchiamento del cofano motore\" width=\"460\" height=\"344\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.modellismochepassione.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/12\/8.jpg 460w, https:\/\/www.modellismochepassione.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/12\/8-200x150.jpg 200w, https:\/\/www.modellismochepassione.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/12\/8-350x262.jpg 350w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 460px) 100vw, 460px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>All I hope is useful for young modeller because my technique is very simple.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-1361\" title=\"11\" src=\"http:\/\/www.modellismochepassione.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/12\/11.jpg\" alt=\"Dettaglio dei carichi esterni e loro rifinitura\" width=\"460\" height=\"344\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.modellismochepassione.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/12\/11.jpg 460w, https:\/\/www.modellismochepassione.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/12\/11-200x150.jpg 200w, https:\/\/www.modellismochepassione.it\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/12\/11-350x262.jpg 350w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 460px) 100vw, 460px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Thank you for reading and watching. Enjoy<\/p>\n<p>Oishi Gunner<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"","protected":false},"author":4,"featured_media":2226,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[25,10],"tags":[66,69,68,67,70],"class_list":["post-1336","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-colorazione","category-materiali-e-tecniche","tag-dark-yellow","tag-half-track","tag-modulation-technique","tag-modulazione","tag-semicingolato"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v26.7 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>La tecnica della modulazione sul colore giallo scuro tedesco<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Come usare questa particolare tecnica per realizzare un semicingolato tedesco completamente giallo scuro. 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